Our Journey to the Coast and Highlands — Granada and The Alhambra

The Alhambra in Spain — Photo by J. Sharland Day

Our trip from Valencia to Granada in the rental car was freeing and amazing. Freeing because we could go anywhere, instead of being stuck in a train to only go where the schedule took us. And it was amazing because we could see areas beyond the windows of the trains we rode. In the trains, we had to go through tunnels, under bridges, past towns, and the seaside with limited scopes of seeing what we passed from the faster speeds and landscapes that whizzed by in a blur.

In the car, we stopped when we wanted to stop and deviated our route when we saw something interesting down another road. We went through the lovely town of Alicante on the Mediterranean Sea and then saw the Montesa castle that we were able to drive near to take a photograph. Both were off our planned grid.

We saw acres and acres of olive groves and fruit trees along the highway, in the valleys, and up the hills. They were not in their prime for picking yet, but were nevertheless awesome to see.

I thought of Don Quixote de la Mancha when we saw a windmill on the top of an embankment near the road as we drove into Cartagena for the night. Such mesmerizing sights. We were in Spain! I kept reminding myself.

The next day we drove through a couple of white villages. In one of them, we found a place to lunch at a co-op building where there were other vendors. There were two eateries, a booth to buy fresh fish, which we weren’t interested in, and another to buy fresh fruits and vegetables from which we purchased apples.

The eatery we chose served sandwiches and was run by a very nice couple. The man, although born in the town, had lived thirty years in the States going to college and then working as an engineer before returning to the village. We found out that bit of information when we mentioned the fact that his English was impeccable. He told us a lot about the region we were in, which was interesting since he also served us food that came from the area: the meat, the cheese, and the bread on which the sandwiches were made as well as the wine we were served. It was a ‘feel-good’ kind of place.

As we drove ‘round the village, I was surprised at how clean the streets were and how the buildings sparkled in the sunlight with no signs of dirt or aging. I’d wondered if they white-washed the buildings every year to keep them so clean-looking.

We arrived in Granada later that day, seeing snow-capped mountains and valleys as we got closer. We’d planned to stay three nights so that we could tour the Alhambra, one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and one of the best preserved in the world. Vivienne had been to the Alhambra years before with her friend, Rachel, and told us that being there was one of her greatest experiences for feeling the aura of life that had been ensconced within the buildings throughout its existence. I was eager to see this place that was so special to her.

The Alhambra in Spain — Photo by J. Sharland Day

We stayed in an interesting hotel down the cobblestone street from the gate to the Alhambra. I say ‘interesting’ because the ancient stone building had been made into a quaint hotel some years before with wood trim and soft colors on the stuccoed walls, but then was added onto with a conflicting modern interior of white and black decor. Vivienne and George were put in the newer part with an elevator to their floor, whereas our room was on the fifth floor of the older part of the hotel. There was another elevator in that section, but it only went to the fourth floor. We had to walk up narrow, staggering stairs to the fifth — a precarious situation when carrying luggage. But it had the amenities needed and great views.

The hotel was in the middle of a hill with cobblestone streets, so wherever we’d go from that point we’d be walking up and then down, or down and then up. It was good exercise, but with Granada being at a higher elevation, it was a huffy-puffy walk. To get to the Alhambra we had to go up, and up, and up. Puff, and huff and puff! Sometimes I wondered if I’d make it. But that hike was the beginning of many more to come and this one helped my legs and lungs acclimate. At least that’s what I kept telling myself.

When we finally finished the climb, I realized it had been as beautiful as it was exhausting and well worth it. The Alhambra was astounding.

The immense complex of structures first began in 1238 by Muhammad I Iban al-Ahmar on Sabika hill, an outcrop of the Sierra Nevada. Through the years, Nasrid rulers kept modifying the site to suit themselves, which gave the royal palaces their definitive characteristics.

After the Reconquista in 1492, the site became the Royal court of Ferdinand and Isabella and was where Christopher Columbus received his endorsement for his famous expedition.

The Alhambra went through many rulers, alterations, and additions throughout its history and when Charles V commissioned a new Renaissance-style palace in the early 17th century it was left uncompleted and eventually fell into disrepair as squatters took over the residence.

It was rediscovered in the 19th century by British intellectuals and northern European and American travelers who became interested in the site. Washington Irving wrote The Tales of the Alhambra in 1832, which brought international attention to the place and restoration began. Because of its history and significant architecture, it has become one of Spain’s major tourist attractions and was made into a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Beautiful, ornate window at The Alhambra in Spain — Photo by J. Sharland Day

I was thrilled to have been one of its many visitors and would highly recommend reserving a time to visit. It was truly exhilarating and magical. I also loved Granada. I enjoyed walking up and down its hilly streets to explore the shops and find fun restaurants, and I would definitely go back.

The next day we were off to Seville and excited to see what those travels would bring.